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Cosmo - A Montreal Restaurants Review

About.com Rating 4 Star Rating

By

Cosmos Nikki and Tony Koulakis

Inside Cosmo with Nikki and Tony Koulakis

Photo © Evelyn Reid

The Bottom Line

A diner with heart, a breakfast that foodie legends are made of, Cosmo is one of those landmarks you kind of have to know about to notice you just passed by it. The thing is, if you knew anything about Cosmo, you'd never walk by without walking in. "But what's the big deal," Cosmo virgins wonder aloud. Indeed, what could be so alluring about ten stools in a low-ceiling, claustrophobia-inducing frenzy of eggs, bacon and breakfast salami?

Pros

  • Eat here everyday and you will get hooked.
  • Why is the salami so good? And don't get me started on the eggs.
  • Get stuffed on $10 or less.
  • Unforgettable hash browns of the breakfast gods.
  • Exceptionally social and friendly atmosphere.

Cons

  • Exceptionally cramped atmosphere.
  • Lineups are common, especially weekends from 9 a.m. through 1 p.m.
  • The bacon is sometimes uneven.
  • Expect saturated fat on everything so if vegetarian, don't bother.
  • Eat here everyday and you will gain weight.

Description

  • Business Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays.
  • Location: 5843 Sherbrooke West, corner of Draper.
  • Get there: Vendôme Metro
  • Phone: (514) 486-3814
  • Food available to go. Call in advance to reduce wait time.

Guide Review - Cosmo - A Montreal Restaurants Review

First noticing international currency filling in as wallpaper to my right of a room the size of my first apartment's kitchen, I'd heard about this place for years but never bothered to venture in until I heard enough of "oh my god, you've never been to Cosmo? But you have to go to Cosmo!"

So I caved. But the diner's acolytes forgot one tiny detail. The lineups. I was ready to settle for the closest gas station rather than wait twenty minutes for a cup of coffee, but my companion, a youngish local who grew up in the area, insisted I wait like the best of them and discover the Montreal N.D.G neighborhood greasy spoon run by the Koulakis family.

Tony, the family patriarch, is a semi-retired living legend (and star of documentary film Man of Grease), still spotted at the grill now and then, serving one perfect breakfast after another. He's passed the spatula onto son Nick (who is always ready to swap opinions on the latest sports scores) and daughter Nikki, a mother hen meets morale officer, chopping this-and-that behind the counter, always delightful and attentive, multitasking as she makes sure every customer has enough coffee.

And was my companion ever right to make me endure every throb of my caffeine withdrawal headache. I tasted the best breakfast salami in the best breakfast egg-cheese-lettuce-tomato sandwich I've ever and will ever have: the Creation. Then there's Cosmo's signature hash browns. Served in a Styrofoam cup, it's a mysterious mix of potato mush, onions and seductively saturated grease. Then there's the burgers. And the eggs. And the mish mash omelette, a four egger with four different breakfast meats, a couple of vegetables and enough calories to shame poutine.

The food, the people, the service ... Cosmo isn't a diner, it's a public service. And Montreal would never be the same without it.

June 24, 2013 UPDATE: family patriarch and Cosmo diner founder Tony Koulakis is no longer with us. It is unclear whether the family will keep the diner open after taking a few weeks sabbatical. Call (514) 486-3814 to to check if Cosmo's is open before heading out.

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